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What Have I Done???


Five years ago I lived on the Upper East Side of Manhattan in New York. Access to everything the world could offer from cigarettes to Greek food delivered at 3 AM. Four years ago I lived in Santa Barbara, California. Access to everything Southern California could offer from chia seeds to peach smoothies. For the past three years, I have lived in Paris, France. Access to everything the City of Light could offer from Époisses cheese to vintage Valentino.

And now, here I am, living in Provence for exactly 4 days and all I can think is, “What the fuck have I done?”

I started to have a wee panic attack when I realized that I am currently living smack dab in the middle of nowhere without a neighbor in sight, surrounded by fields...And nature!

But isn’t this exactly what I wanted? In Paris, I was so close to my neighbors that I knew their entire lives through the window. In Paris, the beautiful garden next door to me only had a stitch of grass that you weren’t allowed to walk on. In Paris, we had to drive to nature. And now here I am in Provence surrounded by everything that I wanted, needed and craved and I feel a bit lost.

And I miss my Gracie. I have called her about 3000 times and have already bought her a train ticket to come for a visit on Wednesday. Being away from Gracie will be the hardest part.

In Paris, I had my routine so perfectly calculated. My apartment was in the middle of the city, easy access for everyone to visit. Afternoon tea with friends at a moment’s notice. The market, the pharmacy, the restaurants were all just steps from my door. The nurses arrived at exactly 10 AM for a bath, the kinesiologist arrived at noon for stretching, the masseuse arrived at 3 PM on Wednesday for a massage, food was delivered within 30 minutes, Internet connection was fast and Uber was readily available. Not so fast in Provence. I need to re-create my team, my routine and my habits down here but it’s going to take some time and adjustments.

It’s going to take some energy and patience getting used to living in Provence. Four words: Slow down, city girl. I know that and I know that I need to give myself some time to adjust and to familiarize myself with my new surroundings. I honestly feel like I have landed on Mars and I have to learn how to adjust to the customs of the Martians.

Moving to a new planet can be daunting but I decided I’m going to take the horse by the reigns because this life in Provence is exactly what I wished for. This environment is actually who I am… Country, nature, barbecues, pools, sunshine, straw hats but I haven’t been exposed to this in quite a while so it’s going to take some time for Stella to get her groove back.

I am not complaining, I am just explaining.

I thought I would just be my typical open book self and tell you everything from the good to the bad. Let’s be honest, the bad isn’t really so bad. I’m just a brat.

Our house is in a village called Saint-Étienne-du-Grès… I think. The real estate agency hasn’t given us an official address so I’m not even sure how I will get mail. The house is surrounded by open fields and we are the only ones on the entire street. Or should I say road. A one lane road. The good news is that the fields are sunflower fields so the summer is going to be gorgeous but for now, it’s dirt fields and for some reason a farmer has decided to take the night shift to plow the fields at 3 o’clock in the morning next to my bedroom window. I don’t even know who to call to complain about that.

The closest village to our house is called Tarascon. It’s kind of ghetto. I told my husband that was our first and last trip to Tarascon. I don’t care if we have to drive an extra five minutes to the next town to get a baguette. I’m going to pretend that Tarascon doesn’t exist. The village in the opposite direction of our house is called Saint-Rémy and it is absolutely darling. Couldn’t be more charming. This will be where I will shop for everything… Tomatoes, olives, cheese, wine, baguettes, and hopefully my favorite Chanel “505 Particuliere” nail polish but I am not holding my breath for that one.
 
Okay, now let’s talk about my house. Officially it is called a “mas.” A farmhouse. It was actually a sheepherders house which makes me beam from ear to ear and I told my husband that I think we should get a little sheep. Just one. His typical response? “Okay, crazy.” The house is all stone with dark gray shutters. One story. Living room, dining room, kitchen and three bedrooms. There is a pool house that is actually my favorite part of the property. There is also a three-bedroom “pigeonniere” (guesthouse) for my caregivers. A pool. The whole property is surrounded by an ancient stone wall. So far so good. All of this for less than the price of my apartment in Paris. That alone makes my husband happy.

 Good. Front Gate.
 
 
 Good. Front of house.
 
 
 Good. Pool house.
 
 
 Good. Gray shutters.
 
 
 Good. Anduze pots.
 
 
 Good. Pool house statue.

 Okay, now let’s go inside. Let’s start with living room because that’s the best room in the house. Tall beamed ceilings, dropdead gorgeous Provençal typical terra-cotta floors, ancient fireplace with mustard yellow walls. So far so good. The dining room is big and I honestly don’t know what to do with it. I need to work that out. The dining room has beamed ceilings as well. This is kind of where the loveliness stops.

 Good. Living room beamed ceiling.
 
 
 Good. Mustard yellow walls.
 
 
 Good. Old terracotta tile floors.
 
 
 Good. Interesting pictures that will stay.
 
 
 Good. Dining room beamed ceiling.
 
 
 Good. Living room fireplace.

The kitchen is a disaster. It looks like the owner was going for a very Provençal look with blue and yellow Monet tiles. But actually the tiles are nearly purple and fluorescent yellow. Nothing a good can of primer and white paint cannot solve. That is next week’s project. Don’t tell the owner. The next huge problem are the floors. The gorgeous living room floors stop at the living room and then suddenly the dining room, kitchen and bedroom floors looks like they were done from the bathroom section of Home Depot. Ceramic Square Tiles. What is wrong with people! I have two choices with these floors. Either cover them with seagrass or paint them. Either way, the owner will not recognize her house when she gets it back one day. You’re welcome.

 Bad. Gorgeous living room floors that lead to shit dining room Home Depot ceramic toilet floors. And then to add that mosaic emblem or whatever it's called. Jesus!!!
 
 
 Bad. From bad to worse. The dining room floors to the kitchen floors.
 
 
Bad. Faux Monet kitchen tiles. 
 
Next, I need to deal with the chandeliers, sconces and curtain rods. This will either be done through the magic of IKEA or finding vintage chandeliers at flea markets.

I spent the first two days at our new house clearing out the owner’s furniture. I realize that the house came furnished but it’s too ugly to bear so I have moved most of it out to the pool house for the owner to pick up. This is why the people in Provence hate Parisians but it is their fault for having bad taste. Don’t believe me? Let’s take a look…

This is the pool house where we have stacked 99% of the owner's furniture. However, the pool house is fantastic. I will show you pictures when all of this crap is removed.
 
The bedrooms are disasters. The owner took it upon herself to paint one of the walls in my bedroom blue. Who does that! I hate accent walls as much as I hate Pier One and Pottery Barn. Another can of white paint necessary. The second bedroom had a complete blindingly ugly shabby chic bedroom set. No one should ever buy a bedroom set, ever. This particular bedroom set had a heart carved into the woodwork, the distressed whitewashed woodwork. That was swiftly dismantled by day 2 and shoved into the pool house out of my sight.

 Bad. Blue accent wall. WTF.
 
 
 Bad. Distressed white oak bedroom set.
 
So, I will be busy the next couple of months getting this house up to snuff. It will be a true test of my interior design skills because I have a budget of exactly 3 dollars.

The first thing that I decided to focus on is a color theme. I decided that the base is just going to be white linen and I will mix in some patterns and a hint of color. I don’t want the house to look choppy. I started to hang my beautiful antique Rouen platter collection in the dining room. I had to wait until my husband went back to Paris to do this because he just loves loves loves when I put nails in freshly painted walls. Take a look...

 Good and bad. Organizing the placement of the platters. Don't even look at those floors.
 
 
 Good. It's best to label the platters so you don't forget where they need to go on the wall.
 
 
My caregivers, now design assistants, Joel and Wilson, hanging the platters.

I needed more plate hangers so I sent my husband to the hardware store on a Tuesday at 1 o’clock… And it was closed. WTF. This is the part of Provence that will take some getting used to. I needed plate hangers and I needed them now! Guess I will have to wait. Patience is not a virtue that this Aries girl comprehends but I’m trying and once I have those platters hung, I’ll be happy. I think they will look great, don’t you? Don’t worry, I haven’t hogged them all… There are a few sets still available in my shop for sale.

So, this is where you’ll find me. Painting, hammering, decorating, cursing and feeling lucky that I have these kind of problems. Thinking of how to solve an ugly floor crisis deters me from remembering that I have ALS and this is just what the doctor ordered. Provence and I are going to make our relationship work, even if it kills us. I’m going to just have to accept the fact that the hardware store will not be open all day, that I will have to search high and low for coconut water, that there is no Uber or midnight Chinese food delivery. But it’s okay, I have the sunshine and I need to just shut the fuck up.

Welcome to Provence!

73 comments:

  1. It looks lovely but I get it..im planning a move myself..selling my house, looking for a beach cottage down in NC but I want to make sure its the right thing. .how do I do that I ask?? I guess I'll have to take a leap of faith...enjoy the beauty that surrounds you, I don't think you'll regret it....oh and btw that tile is hideous and the kitchen..oy...who does that??

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  2. OH my darling Ellie! My head is swimming with angst for your dilemma. That may be a totally illiterate sentence I just wrote, but those were the words that came to me as I pondered your situation. I have nowhere near the sense of style that you do, but I sympathize greatly with the discomfort one feels when faced with a design flaw (horrible floor tiles, inartfully placed) that needs remediation. I'm going now to pray to La Virgen that you are aided in all possible ways to get your surroundings to a suitable degree of comfort and beauty. You deserve nothing less than "good", nay "perfection"!
    Love you, precious lady.

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  3. Provence has just got a bit more fabulous.

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  4. I think it's only natural to realize a dream, step back, and wonder *why* did I want this again? I suspect within a few days the shock will have settled and you'll be madly in love with your new life. That pansy purple blue tile! Ewwwww. I have faith in you. The fireplace! Oh my god it's stunning. Can't wait to see it decorated for Christmas. Take a few deep breaths. Just not so deep your diaphragm explodes. Or implodes?
    I'm having to take deep breaths, too. My Cold War with Kroger continues as they don't have any fucking cranberries yet. I'm having nightmares about it. Where are the cranberries? I think they're trying to retaliate against me for lashing out at them over the bell peppers. I might have to buck up and deal with the quinoa and let's pretend we cook crowd at Whole Foods to get some emergency $45 artisanal free range cranberries.

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    1. "Artisanal Free Range Cranberries" made my day.

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    2. I hang on your every comment to each post... you make my day. every. single. time!

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    3. Stephen, you and Ellie make my day......

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    4. You nailed the Whole Foods crowd on the head-wannabes!!

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    5. GOT THE CRANBERRIES in CALIFORNIA............shall I FED EX??

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    6. Stephen - Free range cranberries and the Whole Foods "lets pretend we cook" crowd comments ....sheer
      poetic genius..No wonder you give such great pleasure to Ellie and the rest of us.... thank you for the
      glib insights....

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    7. Stephen, I look for your comments too: my favorite remains death by asp, but at the Luxor in LV because Egypt is kind of far away. Good luck with the free-range cranberries!

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    8. Stephen needs his own tv show right this minute.

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    9. Let me know if you want me to send you some cranberries straight from the bogs in western Oregon. (Not to try to upstage La Contessa, whose generosity is legendary.)

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    10. Wow, thank you. If only I could convince wealthy gay men I was this great. Since there are no houses on Ellie's street, I want a quaint Provençal RV to park in the sunflower field next to her house. Leslie, I just might. Thank you! I had no idea cranberries were grown in Oregon! I thought they were exclusive to New England and Wisconsin.

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  5. Oh what fun. I vote seagrass wall to wall. Easy to take care of, wears like iron. Nice complementary texture to the real tile floors. Taking out craptacular ceramic tiles is a bitch.

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    1. I vote seagrass also. It will look more like an intentional change of flooring.

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  6. I'm so excited for you! I am moving in the spring/summer and will likely be working with the same budget. :) I'm extremely doubtful that the bones I will have to work with will be as good as yours, but this will give me more freedom to live my life the way I want to. I'm sure I'll be telling myself to STFU and be happy that I have what I need while I get rid of some fugly.

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  7. The kitchen tiles , I feel your pain . I believe you are near Les Baux , adore it there . Treat yourself to a field trip for lunch at Le Mas D'AIGRET and of course you can always drool at L'Oustau de Baumaniere . Cheer up destinations . I love the idea of you in the sunshine with a lovely straw hat , just wishing that I was beside you .Love you , A

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  8. Ellie there are so many great things about Provence and about your new home.
    The others are fixable or just will take some getting used to! ( like the pace and availability of everything you want!)
    keeping busy is a good thing, I am actually envious!!


    xoxo
    Karena
    The Arts by Karena
    Carrier and Company

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  9. Dearest Ellie - happy to hear that you have "Arrived" to live your dream in Provence. The house - what a find! Please don't be too hard on the former occupants. The quality of light is different in Provence, not as grey as Paris or New York. You may find after a while that you prefer warmer, stronger tones.

    Have to agree with you about the Home Depot tiles. Those are exactly the same tiles that are used in the rest rooms in the Home Depots in my area. Think they use them in Walmart, too. (I try to avoid the rest rooms in Walmart.) When Home Depot sold them they were called something like "French Market" or "French Quarter". For about 5 seconds I considered them for one of our rentals. Then I realized that they always look dirty.

    I think I could live with the dining room tiles but those kitchen tiles are ghastly, ghastly, ghastly! Gotta go ASAP!

    Enjoy yourself. Can't wait to see what is in your "shop" tomorrow and all the great finds I know you will unearth in Provence.

    Smiles from Charlotte Des Fleurs

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  10. Amazon.fr may be your new best friend. Order yourself silly on there and stock up on the hardware, the coconut water, and everything else that helps you feel at home. I can't wait to see what a beautiful home it becomes under your care. Thank you for the early look!

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  11. Ellie, in no time at all you will have the house ready to be shown in any design magazine. You have such amazing taste and you will manage to pull together a beautiful home. I can't wait to see the results! How convenient that your caregivers can do double duty as design assistants. Who knew??

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  12. The new house looks like a great project for you and your team! What a great pool! Like you I like the older tiles. I love home renovations and will thoroughly enjoy your design and implementation process. (I also read a blog called "Manhatten nest" where a guy buys a home and renovates it from top to bottom. He landscapes too. Check it out.)

    Living in the country will be a change of pace but the warm sunshine, lovely tranquility and simple pleasures of being close to nature is wonderful. Definitely get the sheep - animals make a home even nicer. Plus, when you want a bit of city life can't you go to Paris or hop on a plane to NYC or LA??? I also suspect you will have lots of guests too. Who doesn't like the french countryside? What's not to like?

    Great new house. Superb countryside. Congratulations, Susan

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  13. DEEP BREATH.....................now exhale.
    XO

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  14. I vote layered seagrass and Persian rugs to cover those truly heinous tiles. I also don't mind the colour of the blue wall in the bedroom (bit like Aerin Lauder's library) but I completely agree on the accent wall - I've never understood why someone/anyone would feel the need to paint one fucking wall, one fucking colour - lazy, non-committal, poor - whatever the reason, it is unacceptable.
    I think Provence is a fabulous place, truly magical. I get the obsession about decorating, I can spend an entire night awake deciding on whether to put bookcases next to a fireplace or not, not everyone understands this apparently. Looking forward to more photos. Agnes xx

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  15. Change is a bitch. And the surprise that Provence is not all sunflowers, all the time is gonna take a minute to adjust to. (it gets COLD and DAMP in the winter, which surprised me... A LOT) But you WILL! And the house will be fabulous! And I get to watch from my computer here in Harlem, NYC (which I am hating right now, just for your information). And I vote for covering the floors with seagrass instead of paint. Paint will not hold up, the owner might get really pissed, and that might be a very expensive thing to deal with. And seagrass smells lovely and is lovely underfoot. Add some fake oriental runners from Ikea (there is one in Avignon, but you knew that I am sure) and you are set. Courage!

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  16. I am in stitches over your post, Ellie, and Stephen's plan to find the 'free-range cranberries' at Whole Foods (the traditional cranberries probably sunk with the stock price). I agree with La Contessa...take a really deep breath, and then plunge ahead with your mini-remodel - it will be so much fun to watch you transform the house to your VERY good taste level. And you're going to love it there once you settle in, I promise. I saw your 'first night' photo on Instagram and I immediately thought of my grandmother saying 'snug as a bug in a rug'. That fireplace is wonderful...

    XOXO / Nancy

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  17. Ellie you are a breath of fresh air in a world that is now so effing politically correct that people are afraid to tell it like it is. Don't ever stop, and just continue to kick-ass in Provence until she's your bitch!

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  18. Oh Ellie I'm so so happy for you and just wish I could jump on a plane, grab a paintbrush, and get to work. (Because in my head you are my new best friend even though we've never met. But don't worry, I've got 2 kids (who also know when I'm hanging out with you on the blog because I'm either laughing or crying) whose schedules will keep me here, out of your hair.) Anyway I'll watch from Seattle and can't wait to see what you do with the place!

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  19. Dearest Ellie, I understand your dilemma is an understatement!(I had never commented on anyone's blog before) I am in your shoes in another country, but trust me if you start using WHITE PAINT during the next 4 months of darkness and rain, do it!!!
    But learn to be patient at any cost...Do not make any major changes to the house yet!!Make sure to make mental note of what you really want to change and live with yhe change in your mind for a week or two!!Do you still like reading?
    Please read "Lettres a un jeune poet"by Rilke!!!ENJOY EVERY MOMENT IN PROVENCE!! MALGRE TOUT!!!

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  20. Love this sneak peek at your first week and the decorator in you tearing through the place to get it looking like you! My favourite picture is of your caregivers/new design assistants hanging your plates. Your have a crew working already so this is going to be great. OMG I love love the idea of seagrass to cover the hideous tiles, can you source this? Because that would be fabulous.
    Oh no the blue accent wall WTF that is so bad. Easily fixed though thank goodness. Wishing I was there as part of your crew and looking forward to you opening a can of whoop-ass on this house. XOX
    ps Can't wait to see the sale tomorrow, I have to work but I'll be rushing home asap pronto to see if I haven't missed my favourites, fingers crossed.

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  21. As someone who moved from a city to a decidedly unsophisticated small town, I understand everything in this post. My next step is to relocate to a more sophisticated small town.

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  22. Definitely seagrass over the HD floor tile and paint for the faux-Monet kitchen tile. Both of my last two moves made me say “WTF was I thinking?”. Don’t panic, you will do brilliantly, as always.

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  23. Dear Ellie, I think your house is a blogger's dream! Just think of all the before-and-after pictures that you'll be able to post, and if we already adore and admire you now, just think how much more we'll love you once you have transformed this little mas! It's perfect!
    You may want to consider paint for those appalling floor tiles, but if you do, please don't use F&B, I did once, a total disaster! I'll email you with the gritty details
    much love
    Sharon
    xx

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  24. I could forgive the kitchen, but those floor tiles... True, no instant satisfaction of your every whim, but - roast chicken trucks, pizza trucks, spectacular countryside, hundreds of towns and villages full of marvelous new friends, wonderful local honeys and produce, markets every day of the week, just over an hour to Capelongue and the incredible food of Edouard Loubet, the Mediterranean not far...you won't be bored and you'll have lots of visitors soon enough!

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  25. Hi Ellie, Aren't we girls a weird lot wanting something we don't have. And then questioning why. The interior decoration is nothing. You'll fix it in a jiffy and have it looking splendid. And it is a distraction from ALS. It's the isolation, well actually the whole scene. You'll be going on a Paris fix. There's nothing like noise, pollution, people, shops, convenience etc. And of course missing Gracie. Could you have the best of both worlds with part of the year in Paris and part in Southern France? Thinking of you. Kind regards, Dee.

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  26. you are so freakin' funny!! When I peeked at your blog I was afraid you were going to say that!! I was just in Paris and I thought geez why is Ellie leaving?? Must be the lavender...seriously though- you have alot of exploring to do!!!

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  27. Yup knew you'd wondered what you'd done; be careful what you wish for! BUT also knew you'd make the ride fun. Can't wait to see what you do with the place. Six months from now you'll have forgotten all about Paris. Let the fun begin!!!!

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  28. Dear Ellie,
    You don't know me but you know my sister (& she LOVES you) - Heather!! She is over-the-moon excited that you are there, so there's that! I know all about Provences "quirks" through Heather, but I also know about its beauty (thanks to her blog and the occasional trip there!). Best of luck in your new house/adventure! And I love your blog! (you FUNNY).

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    1. Robin, your sweet sister took the time to help me plan my trip to Provence this summer. I love her blog, but had never left a response. I received an immediate answer to my first email, and then restaurant and excursion suggestions that made our trip a delight. I went into those places and mentioned your sister's name, and was rewarded with a huge smile. Her generosity of spirit is over the top.

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    2. Thank you so much Kathleen, I was happy to help! I was just sorry that we didn't meet. Perhaps next time? :)

      And my older Sister's generosity of spirit sets a great example for me...

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  29. Ellie enjoy your new journey. Through a very hard time you supported me and gave me hope. You taught me to see the positive and turned me on to an inspiration board. It was hard but it worked and all along you tried to make me feel good. I know that you wanted this and the sun will shine a little brighter in Provence now that you are there.
    Xoxoxo
    Lourdes

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  30. I love how you noted the good and bad but what really made my day was your two caregivers hanging plates. The house has gorgeous features and you're a decorating genius ! You'll LOVE it there, but it's going to take some time, and by some time, I mean LOTS of time. Don't give up (you're not one who needs advice on patience...) My guess is your husband and caretakers all want you to be happy there and that's important. It's ok to analyze how your life has changed, but as you wrote, this is what you wanted for reason: it's you. We're approaching the not-so-pretty time of year but don't get discouraged by ugly. Once you get their s*** out and wipe out the blue and ugly colors, you'll be able to see more clearly. If it's any consolation, I completely empathize -- we did something similar in summer - bought a furnished villetta on a hill surrounded by nature (scorpions, chinghiale, which surface at night), and only 1 road up. I've only lived in cities so I freaked at first, meaning I couldn't sleep, and cried over how we could undo this mistake. Week #1 was sorting good/bad, week #2 was helping 2 removal-service guys carry out the crap, up 150 steps; it took hours but was worth every cent. Then the good work begins with white paint! But it's your place now so please try to enjoy every minute of it, including the tranquility and the night farmer's farming!! And my advice is try to get out every day, even for only an hour - drive from town to town, look at the gorgeous surroundings, have lunch somewhere. It'll be great.

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    1. Before you know it you'll be loving it there - once the house is sorted. Have read enough of your posts to appreciate how efficient you are - and to expect you'll have your helpers sort it all out in record time.

      Have visited Saint-Etienne-du-Grau several times, including last May, as we always go to Les Olivades factory shop there when we're staying in St Remy. Have bought many things at that shop, particularly shirts for my husband - he loves them, so does our son. They have quite a range of textiles - including remnants sold by weight. However, they're not of the white linen variety. But you might find some smaller pieces that will work for you for cushions perhaps. When you have time you might find the Souleiado shop and museum in Tarascon interesting - the back rooms have a mix of strange pieces that probably wouldn't be your taste but you might find something you like.
      St Remy is heavenly, and not far away - such a lovely village with a great market and lots of charming boutiques. You might want to check out Ebene - a decorator type store, quite large for this village. They often sell vintage things on consignment and you can occasionally find lovely items there (found a Third Empire tole tray with faded painted flowers and gold border some years ago - but you might hate this kind of thing).
      Another place you might like to visit is a kind of old barn arrangement just outside Eygalieres which has loads of a huge mix of brocante type things - china, silver, furniture, pictures, clothes, etc - some dreadful kitsch - some things you might like. In May I found a sweet heavy butter dish and lid in white ceramic with hand painted traditional blue flowers. Incredibly cheap and gorgeous. Probably about 60-70 years old, a slight chip inside the lid, which doesn't bother me.
      Also you're within good striking distance of Ile-sur-la-Sorgue and the brocantes market and dealers there. Might be more expensive than you're used to though. We always visit with a French friend and have a great time. The number and quality of stalls seems to fluctuate. Sometimes I find nothing. Other times there are wonderful things.
      So many lovely places in this region to explore. Agree with an earlier comment - L'Oustau de Baumaniere is heavenly, in good weather on a lovely day, dining out on the terrace, admiring the surroundings and the fabulous view of the Val d'Enfer and Les Baux is superb.
      Looking forward to some AFTER pictures. Don't stress. It will all work out - but maybe take a little longer than you're used to. Hope you'll be very happy there! best wishes, Pammie

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    2. HEATHER>>>>>>>>ELLIE>>>>>>>>FIND THAT BARN this lovely woman has SCOUTED for US!I will want HEATHER TO DRIVE US THERE!!!!!!!!!
      I am CERTAIN YOU Know but VICKI ARCHER lives near ST. REMY and lets out an adorable apartment there.
      Just more INFO and I MUST THANK PAMELA for all her SOURCES FOR YOU!!!!
      Eleanor you have created a VILLAGE........you do know that??!!!
      XOXOOxx

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    3. She already knows about the barn! It is the Depot-Vente in Eygalieres. :) Yes, Ellie has a village looking out for her.

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  31. I know. It's a doozy. I moved from NYC to Paris to Arles and now my tiny village. It definitely takes a lot of getting used to and some shifts of how you DO things but once you get it and have your places...you will see and maybe even grow to like that everything isn't open all the time, non-stop. The pace and rhythm of life is the most important thing here, it is, ok, after the 300 days of sunshine per year. :)

    And don't worry I (along with all of your new friends down here) got your back. I know where you can get your coconut water, I know where you can get your Chanel polish, your seagrass has already been sourced...and if you don't feel like going to get any of the above, once you know what village you actually live in, it can be delivered to your (crazily beautiful, calade laden) gate.

    As with everyone else, I can not WAIT to see what you do with this little mas. And I bet it will be done within two weeks. heehee
    Sending so much Love and Strength to you neighbor,
    Heather

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    1. I WISH WE LIVED CLOSER!!!
      How do I convince an ITALIAN To BUY a house in FRANCE????
      XO

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    2. Good Luck on that one! Bwhahhahaa!! We all know how likely that is...an Italian buying a house in France? ;)

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  32. I am still delighted for you...this second guessing is completely normal and a mere bump in the road. You have already begun the adjustment process and the distraction from ALS will keep you alive! Of course you miss Gracie....I miss my children every single day, but living your dream doesn't always come easy. I swear I was sitting here laughing so hard at your post that the dog came over all waggly to see what the fuss was! As for the 2 hour closures at lunchtime and the nightime farm machinery, here in Charente I have, after 3.5 years, come to enjoy the rythmn of it all....it's a bit like a sweet song in the background. Measuring the seasons by the grape-tending surrounding us (Cognac country) has become fascinating instead of getting old and the beauty of our surroundings becomes more lovely with each passing day. I suspect it will happen for you, too. And, as Robin says, lovely Heather is nearby.
    PS Stephen, don't give up on those cranberries! Bwahaha!

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  33. Its gonna be okau!! Really!! I moved from a darling Craftsman Bungalow five minutes from downtown San Diego to a village in the Languedoc that you have to drive 40 minutes if you need a nail. I got used to it for the beauty but now I'm moving to Provence, not far from you, in the Vaucluse near Carpentras. I have gotten used to everything being closed from 12-2 and on Sunday, and while it is sometimes annoying the pace of life here beats the 24/7 one of the US. Put that seagrass down. Stay out of the kitchen. There is probably a solution for those tiles that isn't so permanent -- perhaps there is a strippable wallpaper -- or some kind of wash-off paint so you don't get into too much trouble with the owners. Don't think you have any recourse about the midnight plowing, but it won't happen often. St. Remy is a wonderful small town, forget about Tarascon (which does have nice areas and a great history). Avignon isn't far and from there the TGV goes all over -- but you know that. I'm just glad you have gotten into the sunshine!
    bonnie

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    1. BONNIE!!!!
      SO, you are a CALIFORNIA GAL.........I went to school for one year in LA JOLLA.COUNTRY DAY a million years ago!I am SO excited YOU will be CLOSE TO HEATHER AND ELLIE!!!YOU are SO SPOT ON SHE will get use to the closures and the quiet..............WE are NON - STOP 24/7 here in the STATES...................a store I think it's REI has announced it willNOT be OPEN on BLACK FRIDAY!!!Thats a step in the right DIRECTION I do not know what their logic is but it would seem to allow their employee's to travel for TURKEY DAY or just ENJOY FAMILY is how I am looking at it!!!!Perhaps,other SHOPS will TAKE NOTE!

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  34. Dear Ellie, I hear ya! However, soon your house is going to be the most beautiful house in Provence. No doubts. Can't wait to see the progress and hear the tales. Bon Courage! Susan NYC

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  35. Oh my gosh! Just found your blog and I am savoring every detail of your new adventure! Can't wait to follow along - and see how you turn a house into your home. Your style is fabulous. I laughed out loud at the Home Depot ceramic tile - I may or may not have been try to rid them from my house for years!!!! At least I can take comfort in the fact that bad taste from previous homeowners is worldwide - not just in my house! Good luck! Katie, PA

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  36. It sounds like Provence needs you just as much as you need Provence! I can't wait to watch your projects come together. I'm taking notes since we're about to start a major home renovation stateside.
    RR

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  37. Every move I've ever made taxes my patience of which I have a tremendous amount most times. Changes are difficult for most & for you I don't even want to imagine how difficult they could be. It will all work out, truly it will. You & your staff will make miracles happen. Those kitchen tiles are the worst but I might suggest some of those tin metal old looking tiles. No sure if I'm being clear on what they are called but they are sometimes installed on ceilings. Might have to buy them new & faux them to look aged. They could be adhered in a non permanent way. You'll figure it all out without a doubt. I'm anxious to see the transformation!

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  38. This is a huge adjustment for you. Transition sucks. You will figure it all out; this too shall pass. Hang tight. You are blessed with decorating abilities that will pull you through this stressful time. I have total faith in you - your mas will be smashing in no time. Hugs.

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  39. Ellie,

    I too am looking forward to "after". What an adventure. We, too, have a house in Provence, in Mirabel aux Baronnies, in the northern Vaucluse/southern Drome. We only come once a year, and this is our first trip. One of the challenges is organizing a day when everything closes from 12-3 or 3:30 (except the restaurants.). For the first few days, we thought we would never master it . . . but after a week, it is becoming second nature and we re enjoying our leisurely lunches.

    Do you know the blog, Velvet and Linen? If not, take a look. Very inspiring interior design and architecture and very much in your taste (or what I think is your taste).

    Hang in there --

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  40. Ellie,

    I know that you will make that house beautiful and totally your own! Wish you were here to help me with my house!

    Lorraine xxoo

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  41. Oh I so know the "what have I done" feeling. Over the years I've moved from Philadelphia to Atlanta to Salt Lake City to Seattle to Cincinnati to Washington, DC, and always lived in the city and in condos. Then one day I was in the Shenandoah Vally of Virginia planning to waste a realtor's time when I drove by my dream house with a for sale sign. I saw it the next day, went back the next and made an offer the next....and I have commitment issues! Imagine my surprise when I realized there was no front desk to call when something went wrong, and if I needed something immediately from the grocery store, it was 12 miles away. It did take quite a bit of adjusting - luckily I was working one week in DC and telecommuting one week so it wasn't a total country immersion - but it has been the best move I've made. Now for my next chapter I have my house on the market and I'm moving to France - at 72, if I don't do it now, I won't do it later. Can't wait to hit the brocantes! Looking forward to seeing your house come into its own.

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  42. Ellie how exciting for you. So happy you will live your dream. The light is amazing in that part of the world and I'm sure will be so healing for you. I can't wait to see the transformation of your new home. Much love,K xxx

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  43. It is so true that even when we makes changes that are good (like moving to Provence!), those transitions can still be hard and overwhelming, especially at the beginning. I am thinking of moving from NYC to Savannah (or anywhere without winter), and will be following your relocation process closely. Can't wait to hear that you have the tiles covered, that you've found your people, and are having fun!

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  44. Home is where your heart is..and oriental rugs and runners, stacks of books, fresh flowers in whatever kind of container, couple of comfortable chairs with pretty throws, and of course paint, which is cheap, but does the trick...oh, and some nice smelling candles also. Anyway, this works for me...maybe for you too...

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  45. Ellie Ellie Ellie....I am in awe!! You my dear have accomplished what most functioning human beings could never, from a wheel chair, with breathing machine, etc etc...You have charmed/lulled us into this amazing fun place, with your never ending wit, grace, and honesty....I completely forget your are operating from a compromised position...How in the hell did you move yourself to Provence??!! I'm sure it's a bit scary and seems surreal...but you can do it, and we all know the end result will be fabulous! The bones are there,and you will find a way to hide the pimples. It sounds like you have a great posse, already circling...and just in time for the holidays! I am so happy for you and all the new beginnings you are creating through this move...lots of love, Candy

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  46. Ellie
    Ask the owner if you can paint out the kitchen tiles. I noticed at the hardware store in tarascon, that they sell paint for tile. He might say yes?
    Judy

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  47. If anyone knows how to make a house a home, it is you. just pull up those suspenders and go for it. Can't wait for the next installment of this adventure. xoxo Mary

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  48. It looks like the beginning of an exciting adventure! By the time the cold winter chill sets in over Paris, you (and Gracie) will be pinching yourselves over this charming retreat in the South of France…plus no more elevator schleps for David. I can already see a Christmas wreath on the head of the OVERSEER pool statue. Have fun with it Ellie! xox

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  49. I wish you have so much entertainment with your house decoration as I had when reading your text!!! Enjoy yourself and take your time! Kisses from Greece where the weather is gorgeous, I am still go swimming!

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  50. P.S. I thought that Tarascon was a beautiful middle-age city with many fairy tales. "Tarascon de Tartarin" by Alphonse Daudet is set there, or is it another Tarascon near you?

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  51. I felt the same way about Tarscon. It has so much potential but is just dead. They do have a fun festival in June about Tarasque-a"dragon" defeated by Saint Martha. I found winters in Provence tough but, oh, the summers!

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